Jeff Maher, #30, DasBoot

I made one from 1" PVC tubing , three straight slip-fit couplings, and some O rings.

Cut the 1" tube into four pieces and rig the assembly such that it glues together leaving three 1/8" to 3/16" gaps on the inside, and similar gaps on the outside between the pieces. Turn the assembled tube over a belt sander (like a corn cob on a stick o' butter) to reduce the outside diameter till it fits the rudder tube. Visit your local plumbing supply and have them bring you their box of rubber o-rings (select three for the inside and two for the outside) gaps. I think I used 1/8" thick rings?? Mess with it.

Slather with soapy water and push it down to the bottom of the tube, over the rudderstock, using another piece of 1" tubing.

Total cost should be about $5, unless you've got some of that stuff kickin' around.

The next one I make will be the full-length of the rudder tube, with rings at the top and bottom. The center portion will encase the stock, but still allow some bellying when the rudder is pulled hard- over--I think this bending acts as a bit of a shock-absorber to prevent shock damage to the stock/fin attachments.

If you have a stainless stock, I don't think it would be a good idea to use a full-length bearing, though...not enough air/water exchange to prevent corrosion.

The first one is in use on sombody else's boat. Early results were good: no water up the tube, no impingement of the stock.

Tim, #381, Glissando

I am the "guinea pig" that Jeff mentioned: I have the prototype PVC bearing in my boat. I am on the second season with it now, and it works great. I have never had water enter the cockpit through the rudderpost, and the bearing seems to hold the rudderpost nicely in place without restricting movement. My rudder tube has a flange, or shelf, partway down so the full length of the 3" or 4" bearing wouldn't fit down; I just cut it to fit. I think there are still 2 or 3 O-rings on the assembly. Even with the cut-down bearing, it still works fine. I have no lower bearing.

Ted Andresen, #75

If you are working on the rudder you should make sure you look for cracks sand and examine with a magnifying glass] in the rudder post where the top 5/16" drift pin passed through the rudder post into the rudder.

The drift pin hole removes 40% of the material from the rudder post at that point.

On my rudder post the bronze had work-hardened and developed a hair line crack. I had to lay in a new post. This time I used a 1/4" drift pin. Lots of work.