East Coast Triton Forward Hatch Replacement

Jim Lydon, Swahili, # ?

I have replaced the forward hatch on Swahili last year and have avoided any cutting of the deck. The hatch I utilized was from Lewmar I cannot locate the model number, however its measurements are approx. 22"X 22". As we know there is a curveature to the forward deck. I built up from the deck a teak support frame. I did this by transfering the curvature of the deck onto the 4 pieces of teak that will form the base for the hatch. The forward and aft pieces will contain the most curvature the port and starboard pieces will be cut to a slight angle on the underneath. I started out with teak pieces about 1 1/2 thick. HINT "Purchase the hatch of your choice first, then measure the with of the screw down section of the hatch and order or cut the width of the teak to be slightly larger than the screw down section of the hatch.

If you are really good at carpentry you could probably build this hatch frame with only the first cuts. I am not too bad at carpentry but still had to spend considerable time hand sanding down the teak to obtain the correct curvature to fit snuggly against the deck.

After the base was built check for a level top surface. I screwed up into the teak base from below. This worked well except the screw heads are visable, and making a teak trim to cover the screw heads

is almost impossible, do to the radical curvature over-head below. Use your choice of bedding material before screwing down the teak frame. Also be sure to pre drill all holes into teak. Teak is a wonderful

wood but splits easily. Then simply screw down the hatch to your teak base. The teak base I made was about 2" high after the curvatures were cut. Like anything on a boat you think this is a 2 hour project. WRONG! pretty much allow one full day. The hatch was around 300.00 If I remember correctly.

Good luck!