Mark Whipple, #59, TIKVAH

While I don't think I need to warn this group, I'll say it anyway: don't believe everything you read! I've seen various accounts, most recently in Good Old Boat, about how set screws for cutless bearings are usually located near 3 and 9 o'clock, or maybe straight down at 6 o'clock. Unfortunately, the last people who installed a cutless bearing on my boat didn't read no stinkin' articles! I eventually found three set screws - one at 6 o'clock, one at 2 and one at 10. I didn't find them until after I made a cut down the center of the cutless bearing just to get it out.

cutlass bearing removal It appears someone did a nice job of installing a larger stern tube and faired around it where it exited the hull. I had to grind away all that filler, and then I still had to drill out the screws because the hex heads stripped! (See attached pix - still figuring out my new digital camera.)

My next challenge is to install the lightly-used stainless-steel drive shaft I picked up this summer. (I had to cut through the old bronze one, which was well-worn anyway.) I need to press the drive shaft out of the coupling, then get it back into the coupling once it's on the boat.

cutlass bearing removalcutlass bearing removal

Harry James

(Find) the set screws that hold it in? They will be near the aft end and might be hidden under layers of bottom paint. You should be able to get at the inside end to drive it out. See if you can find a large socket that will fit inside the tube but catch on the bearing. If you can't drive it out then you have to cut it out.

I have a hacksaw blade holder with a handle that I could get inside the bearing to cut through the bearing wall twice and remove the two bearing halves. I guess you could use a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. I always end up doing some damage when I break out the sawzall, it is not a precision finish tool. You might have to do some repairs before putting in the new bearing.

All in all you would be better off in driving it out from the inside, using drifts or a socket if you can. Use a dead blow hammer or a real sledge. Its been there for 40 years and doesn't want to leave.

Rob Squire, #96, Head Over Heels

There are 2 set screws. One on each side. Failing that, use a sawzall and carefully cutthrough one side to relieve some of the tension. It should come out. I had the stern tube start to work out by using brute force.

Ken

Agree, there've been times the guys at work have trashed out a rubber mallet trying to knock something loose, only to find all it needed a real blow from a mini-maul to knock it loose.

When things are realy frozen in place, I've often had luck giving it a few thumps in the other direction. They'll often move far enough back that when you hit it from the right side it has enough inertia to get past whatever was stopping it.

Art freeman, #525

On the prop bear issue. I could not get mine out on a '63 West Coast Triton and used the hacksaw to cut the wall. There was no screw. The new one was also a very tight fit (too tight) and the instructions talked about not dropping the thing if you were to shrink it in liquid nitrogen (!!!) to be able to get it in. Maybe that is how they got it in! Being fresh out of liquid nitrogen, I filed it a little smaller to be able to tap it in w/o a sledge hammer, and then drilled a set screw on either side using maybe a #8 or #10 SS screw going into a dimple in the brass bearing wall. No problems for 700 engine hours and I figure I can get the thing out this way to replace w/o taking the shaft out.

Steve Lutz

The rudder does not have to come off; I've never done a cutlass without pulling the shaft; I think the prop does have to come off, but I'm not sure; If you have a 2-blade, you might be able to seek it by, but I doubt it. The best way I've found for seperating the shaft from the flange is to place an object in the center of the coupling and use the coupling bolts to press the shaft out of the coupling. Here is a step-by-step:

1) Spray the coupling with Aero Kroyl or similar - let it set a day or so

2) Remove all bolts from the coupling

3) Find a series of small metalic object, progressively longer, that can be placed in the center of the coupling, between the end of the prop shaft and the transmission half of the coupling. Make sure the object is facing the prop shaft and only the prop shaft. There are some ledges in there. I've use things out of my tool box like sockets and bolts of the proper length.

4) Replace the bolts in the coupling and tighten them . If you chose the right length object, you should be able to press the shaft loose as you tighten the coupling bolts.

5) I've found it best to take it a bite at a time, using progressively longer objects.

Expect to spend the better part of a morning, just getting the shaft out. .

I have a large (~6" diameter) bronze cover in the bottom of my cockpit that allows access (sort of) to the cutlass area. I assume this is commen to most Tritons.

Once you get the shaft out, I would suggest replacing the rubber tube between the hull an the packing gland. I know someone whose Alberg 30 sank in the slip because the tube failed. There is special hose for it, it is supposed to not have any wire in it.