Restoring Cored Decks (From Inside)

Mike Lehmkuhl, Renegade #3, ATHENE (http://www.mindspring.com/~ghz)

Two words: Resin Head.

I did this a couple of years ago and I came to relaize that, "Gravity is Our Friend, Why Fight It by trying to re-core from underneath"? If there is any other way to do it, then take that route. My project was the aft quarter deck which meant I had to fit myself into the aft lazarette to do this

project which was a feat in itself.

I did this project in stages:

1. Remove bottom skin and scape out bad core.

2. Sand bottom of top skin and bevel existing bottom skin.

3. replace core in small areas (I had a 2x2 area I was recoring so I did

this part in two or three stages too). Use 2x4s or something to make sure

the core is pressed securely to top skin (no air bubbles please). Saturate

Core with thickened epoxy on three sides only... leave bottom of core for

later so you don't epoxy your 2x4s to the core.

4. Saturate bottom of core and start reglassing bottom skin. If you use

part of the old bottom skin, you will need the 2x4s again.

If you do decide to do it, mix your resin in small batches and start coating the glass fabric or core before you put it up. That way it will stick to what is already up there and there is less chance of it falling down. Also let the resin start to set up a little (depending on the heat conditions) so

that the glass or core will stick.

Of course My project also involved glassing a new bottom skin so your project may not be as extensive.

Greg / #277 / Aliya

Regarding core deck repair from interior approach:

A leaking stantion and lifeline anchor plate on the starboard side caused a 4 foot length of our core deck to turn soft. We removed the interior skin on the underside of the side deck by cutting its length with a small circular saw. After removing the skin and exposing the underside of the core, many 1/4 " holes were drilled (not drilling in to the deck skin) to drain , suck out with a vaccum pump, and to dry the core. In addition, acetone was injected in to the core to help dry the core even more. After several weeks to dry, "Get-Rot" was injected in to the same holes and tape used to cover the hole (quickly). A 1/4" plywood panel with 2x4 supports was used to apply upward pressure to allow contact with the upper deck skin and the saturated core. A few wood screws were used to help secure the plywood panel to the core and left in place. Two years later this area is solid and appears to be holding. Should the core be a mush this approach may not be adquate, but the approach from below might.